Textiles 101

How a Fabric That’s All About Texture Became a Modern Classic

What’s in a name? When it comes to bouclé—which translates to curl or loop in French—it’s the very definition of the fabric. Woven from yarn that’s been spun into a long chain of tiny loops, bouclé has a wonderfully nubby texture that’s just as visually soft and appealing as it is cozy and cosseting. Perhaps that’s why bouclé has been a natural choice for both high-end upholstery and high fashion since the 1950s.

Ogden Boucle. Design by Sara Ruffin Costello. Photo by Paul Costello

Schumacher’s Ogden Bouclé, made with extra-long loops of twisted yarns for a wonderful mélange effect, ups the comfort factor of a curvaceous chaise. Design by Sara Ruffin Costello.

Paul Costello

Let’s Get Technical, Shall We?

Bouclé can refer to both the fabric and the yarn from which it’s woven. To create bouclé yarn, three or more individual strands are spun together, including one with a little extra slack that naturally forms into loops. The size of the loops determines the texture of the finished fabric: Bigger coils create a fluffier, fuzzier surface; tiny kinks produce a denser, more durable weave; and loops of varying sizes create depth and interest. Once woven, bouclé fabrics can resemble everything from linen and tight terry cloth to curly shearling.

Bouclé has traditionally been made from wool, and that’s still the fiber of choice for many high-end fabrics. But bouclé yarns can be made from nearly any fiber—including synthetics such as rayon, nylon, and polyester—or a blend of multiple fibers for even more dynamic texture.

Schumacher Editions Furniture Collection

Part of the Schumacher Editions dining collection, our Rocco chair channels mid-20th-century chic in plush ivory bouclé.

MELANIE ACEVEDO

A High-Design History That Defined the Mid-20th-Century Look

What does a Bertoia chair have in common with a Chanel jacket? Both often showcased the beauty of bouclé.

In 1947, Florence Knoll established a textiles department for the legendary Knoll furniture manufacturer and pioneered the search for upholstery fabrics with color and texture as their primary design elements. While she first turned to gray and beige tweeds adapted from the garment industry, a series of new bouclés developed by Knoll designers including Marianne Strengell and Toni Prestini proved even more texturally appealing. Bouclé became the standard match for the organic curves of Bertoia chairs in the 1950s and graced some of Eero Saarinen’s first Womb chairs.

And none other than Coco Chanel is credited with being the first to use bouclé in clothing. Like Knoll, Chanel embraced bouclé for its kinship with tweed, but found its rich texture and softness a better fit for her modern women’s suiting, designed to give the wearer a sense of ease and freedom of movement. Favored by the likes of Jackie Kennedy and Elizabeth Taylor, Chanel’s iconic bouclé jacket has become an indelible image of mid-20th-century American style.

Artisanal Boucle. Design by Brigette Romanek. Photo by Max Kim-bee

Schumacher’s Artisanal Bouclé has a dense, plush construction that makes for wonderfully weighty curtain panels. Design by Brigette Romanek.

Max Kim-Bee

Playing to Its Strengths

Soft and cottony enough for pillows, bouclé fabric is also sturdy enough for high-traffic upholstery—and its dimensional stability makes it particularly good at covering bendy arms and curvilinear shapes. What’s more, bouclé’s lofty, loopy construction makes it surprisingly effective at sound absorption, so it’s an excellent choice for curtains in spare, echo-y spaces that could use some instant warmth.

Today’s bouclés come in a variety of hues and patterns, from luxurious neutrals (see Margarete Bouclé by Patterson Flynn) to contemporary stripes (Reyes and Bensley bouclés). But don’t be fooled by the delicacy of bouclé’s downy looks. Thanks to technical advances, there’s no need to stop at the living room: Schumacher now has options that can stand up to the elements, like our hardworking Zuzu Indoor/Outdoor—a machine-washable wonder with a truly touchable hand.

Discover a few of our favorite bouclé fabrics below, and shop even more fabulous textural options here!

Related Posts

View All →